What is the difference between the Needak® rebounder and others?
Answer: Needak® is a manufacturer of rebounders -- and rebounders are the ONLY thing we manufacture. Models available through discount stores or marketing/promotion companies are imported. We have control over all aspects of production -- they get the most inexpensive model they can (Generally quality is not an issue with marketers, only price).
Needak® insists on producing the highest quality rebounder. Needak Rebounder prices may be a few dollars more, but you get a rebounder that will provide many years of service and is more gentle on your body. If it doesn't have the Needak label on it, you can be almost 100% certain it is an Asian import. Compare the Needak® rebounder to typical imports.
Question: Is your rebounder design outdated?
Answer: Needak® offers a solid, time tested design. For instance, our hinge design is virtually indestructible. It costs us more to build it, but we know it will provide years of service and establishes a solid and stable rebounding platform.
Over the years, various "pretty" new designs have been offered. Some of these endangered the user and eventually all have failed. (Frankly, a good spring cover hides most of the design elements anyway.)
Question: Why is your rebounder "round" instead of some other shape?
Answer: The round design is the best because it places even stress force upon all components. As you rebound, the same force is applied to the mat, springs, and frame in front of you, behind you, and on either side of you.
Any design which places springs in a corner, those springs to absorb unequal impact and they tend to break more frequently than the springs along the straight sides which do not flex as much.
Question: Why is your Soft-bounce spring better than other types of springs for rebounding?
Answer: Needak® Mfg. innovated the Soft-Bounce™ spring which absorbs as much as 85% of the impact of each bounce. This is due to the unique barrel shape of the spring. The diameter of the coils increases as you move toward the center of the spring.
There are generally 2 types of springs found on imported rebounders. The classic spring found on low-end imported rebounders is a shorter spring and tends to be very stiff. A few imports use a spring that looks like our Soft-Bounce™ spring.
Fact: Springs will break. Common sense tells you that if you flex metal, it will eventually break. We do not make exaggerated or unfounded claims about our springs. It would surprise you how many people come to us for springs and relate stories of dissatisfaction with marketing companies who told them things such as, "Our springs never break, that is why we don't carry them in stock." or "You obviously misused your rebounder to cause breakage." If you leave a rebounder in the closet and never use it, you won't break springs. If you get the benefits out of a rebounder, spring replacement is an inexpensive maintenance item.
Question: What is the new Hard-Bounce Spring?
Answer: Needak® proudly introduced the Hard-Bounce spring in February, 2008 as a response to the problems found in the classic rebounder spring. Customers who are over 300 pounds cannot generally use the Soft-bounce spring because it stretches enough to allow them to touch the floor as they bounce. For years they have been forced into the "Classic" rebounder spring which was of shorter length and did not allow this to happen. Unfortunately it was also very stiff and would allow some jarring to the joints as they bounced. This stiffness also cause premature spring failure. The new Hard-bounce spring is styled after the Soft-bounce, but only absorbs 35% of the bounce giving more support to heavier users and professional athletes. It has a considerably longer life and is interchangeable in length with our Soft-bounce spring.
Closing A Folding Rebounder
Pull the spring cover back away from the hinges.
Fasten Velcro straps to hold spring cover away from hinge.
Turn the rebounder upside down and lay flat. Pull each leg up and over it's platform pin and lay it down towards the center of the mat.
Note: Extend the leg spring only enough to allow it to slip up and over the platform pin.
Determine the bottom half of the frame by locating the side that has the larger/outer hinges.
There are 2 accepted methods to close the frame. The traditional method requires more upper body strength and is easier for people with a short torso length. The Alternate method requires a couch or other piece of heavy furniture to complete.
"Traditional" and "Alternate" closing methods are found below.
Position your knees and hands on the frame as demonstrated.
Note: The rebounder is held in the open position by the stout tension of the springs. To close, you will need to overcome the tension of the springs. Once you have overcome the tension, the rebounder will have the tendency to snap closed. Make sure you grasp the frame firmly and pull slowly to maintain control while closing. Also, keep your head clear of the frame movement.
With your right hand, firmly grasp the center of the "top half" of the frame and pull upwards and toward the "bottom half."
Having completed the steps above and determined the "top half" and "bottom half" of the hinge (see above), firmly grasp the "bottom half" at the midpoint of the frame with both hands. Slide the "top half" of the frame under a couch or other low and heavy piece of furniture. The frame and at least 1 leg will contact the furniture in this maneuver and may scratch the finish or fabric. It may be advisable to place a towel between the rebounder and the furniture.
Note: The rebounder is held in the open position by the stout tension of the springs. To close, you will need to overcome the tension of the springs. Once you have overcome the tension, the rebounder will have the tendency to snap closed. Make sure you grasp the frame firmly and pull slowly to maintain control while closing. Also, keep your head clear of the frame movement.
Raise the "bottom half" of the frame slowly until the spring tension is overcome. Slide the rebounder out from under the furniture and complete the close.
Opening A Folding Rebounder
Lay the rebounder on the floor in it's still folded position. Have the larger outside hinges touching the floor.
Firmly grasp both halves of the frame at the midpoint of each half circle. Please keep all fingers away from hinge area when opening the rebounder.
Using steady pressure, with hands open and fingers extended, use the palm of the hands to push top side of frame down and open.
Note: The mat springs may cause the rebounder to "snap open."
With the rebounder now open and still upside down, lift each leg into a perpendicular position (up and over it's platform pin).
Make sure the spring cover and bungee cord are free from the leg tube so the leg seats properly.
Turn the rebounder right side up, release the "Velcro holding straps" on the spring cover.
Pull that portion of the spring cover evenly over the hinge area.
Replacing A Mat Spring
Hook one end of the spring into the frame pin. Position the opposite end of the spring by turning it away from the closest webbing loop. Place the end of the spring over the screwdriver shank while placing the tip of the screwdriver over the mat cleat (bullhorn shaped metal bar).
Push the handle of the screwdriver toward the mat and the spring will snap into place.
Removing Mat Springs
Remove the spring cover. You will remove the springs from the top. A flat blade screwdriver approximately 10 inches in length is all you need for removing and replacing mat springs.
This operation is a matter of leverage and you will want to keep good control of the handle of the screwdriver at all times. To increase leverage and stability, place one side of the rebounder against an immobile object such as a couch.
Remove the two pairs of springs on either side of a hinge first.
When the 4 pairs of springs surrounding the hinge have been removed, fold the rebounder in half (See Close rebounder instructions). This will release the tension on the remaining springs and they can be removed by hand. The small black tube that is on the hook by the mat will need to be pulled off and then the springs will slip right out.
Slide the screwdriver from the mat between the spring hook and cleat (bullhorn) on the right-hand spring of the two. The tip of the screwdriver blade will slide between the two springs and will press against the 3rd or 4th coil of the right spring. With a firm grip on the handle, rotate the screwdriver to the left (slightly above the surface of the mat). As the screwdriver rotates, it will raise the hook up and away from the cleat.
Just prior to the spring release, the screwdriver will rotate toward the top of the spring and lift the hook upward.
Repeat for the left-hand spring, starting on the left side and rotating right. Move to the next 2 springs and repeat the process.
Replacing Leg Springs
Tie a shoestring to the long hook end of the spring.
Remove Leg tip. As illustrated, this can be done with a flat blade screwdriver by sliding the blade between the leg and leg tip and prying up slightly. Do this on either side of the leg to quickly remove the tip.
Slide spring with attached shoestring into the leg.
Attach short hook end of spring onto the tab of the leg, pushing it deep into the tap opening.
Put the leg tip completely on the leg before continuing to the next step.
Caution: Please wear eye protection for this step!
With a firm grip on the shoestring, carefully pull it out the end of the leg opposite the tab, extending the spring to the point where the body of the spring is partially out past the end of the tube. With between 2-5 coils exposed, turn the spring at a right angle and slide it onto the side of the leg as shown.
Once securely angled onto the leg, release the string and attach carefully to the platform pin of the rebounder.
Replacing A Leg
Pictured is a replacement leg with spring set at a right angle. If your leg does not have the spring in place, please
With a needle nose pliers, grasp the open side of the leg spring hook and guide it carefully through the hole in the platform pin.
With a firm grasp on the leg, lift slightly to release the coils hooked on the edge of the leg tube and align the leg over the platform pin.
Make sure the spring cover and bungee cord are free from the leg tube so the leg seats properly.
Replacing Spring Cover
Position the rebounder upright or open with the legs in place (as if you were going to jump on the rebounder).
Each spring cover has two hinge patches. One of the patches has a seam where the fabric and internal banding join.
Each spring cover has 8 hook & loop straps. Two are located at the hinge patch and 6 are located at the leg positions. Hook & Loop is a material very similar to Velcro™, however it is a two sided material with the rough hooks on one side and soft loops which grab the hooks on the other.
Center the seamed hinge patch above a hinge (over the frame seam on a non-folding rebounder) and wrap the hook & loop strap nearest the legs around the frame to the left of the adjacent leg on the left and the right of the leg adjacent on the right. This allows maximum movement of the internal banding of the spring cover.
Wrap the hook & loop strap under and around the frame back onto itself.
This photo illustrates the hook & loop strap to the left of a leg. Continue around the frame wrapping each hook & loop strap until all 6 near the legs are in place. If you have a folding rebounder, the hook & loop straps at the hinge are left loose at this time. If you have a solid frame rebounder, the straps may be wrapped around the frame.
Adjust the lower band of the spring cover under the frame.
NOTE: Some people install the spring cover by wrapping the hook & loop straps around the leg tube instead of the frame. This is acceptable as long as the spring cover is installed with the legs in position as shown at left. However, if the leg tubes are released for folding, they may pinch the hook & loop strap between the frame and leg tube making the unit unstable and damage the hook & loop strap. If this method is used we would suggest complete removal of the spring cover before folding.
Replacing Rebounder Mat
Position the rebounder on the floor or a table with legs extended. To gain access to the springs and edges of the mat, you must remove the spring cover from the rebounder. This is done by pulling the “bungee” cord over each leg. Or, you can carefully pull the spring cover over the frame and slide it down the legs.With the mat fully exposed, you will remove the old mat with a scissors or utility knife. The polypropylene material used for the jump surface and the edge webbing are very tough. Be cautious of your cutting tool and remain in control during the cut. Begin by cutting from the center of the mat toward and through the outer webbing. Repeat this as many times as necessary to remove the mat.
With the mat now removed, inspect the clevis pins that pass through the frame for excessive wear on the eye of the pin.
Non-Folding Rebounders
Place the mat in the center of the frame. Begin attaching springs to the mat. Please make sure 2 springs attach to each mat cleat.
Folding Rebounders
In order for the rebounder to properly close, the grain of the mat must be in line with the hinges. At left is an example of the weave of permatron. The fibers are crossed to form 2 perpendicular axes. The grain is either set of fibers.
The grain of the mat passes between 2 cleats which will attach between the 2 hinges of the rebounder. The negative grain will pass directly into 2 mat cleats.
Begin by attaching 2 springs to the mat on either side of one hinge. Move to the other hinge and do the same. You can then attach the remaining springs.
Finally, lubricate the contact points between the springs and mat cleats and if necessary the point where the springs enter the Clevis Pins and replace the spring cover.
Attaching Stabilizing Bar
Use any combination of 2 legs-skip one leg between the pair. The hands shown on the picture illustrate which legs to choose.
Remove rubber leg tips from two legs of the rebounder. Tips may be removed by cradling the leg in your fingers and pushing them off with your thumbs or with a screwdriver as shown. (Do not slip with the screwdriver or you may injure yourself or damage the jump mat).
Tip: Apply Vaseline to the inside of the leg tips for easier replacement.
Slide the vertical bars over rebounder legs and replace the leg tips.
Position bar legs so the spring buttons are perpendicular with the rebounder frame.
Note: During shipment, the spring buttons may slide away from the hole. Use a needle nose pliers to retrieve the button and reposition.
Connect the two halves of the stabilizing bar by depressing the spring button. Push the two pieces together while twisting slightly until the button and hole match.
You next need to determine the "front" of the stabilizing bar. When standing on the floor in front of the rebounder, the spring button will be on the left. (When standing on the rebounder it will logically be on your right.)
Position the top portion of the bar over the vertical legs and slide them down evenly to the desired height and lock in place with the spring buttons.
The stabilizing bar is designed to flex slightly with your movement as you rebound. Some movement in the assembled bar is normal and necessary to prevent injury.
Snap Button Replacement
With the pin up and in line with the pinhole, depress the ends of the snap button between the index finger and thumb. Insert the pointed end of the snap button into the tube.
A needle nose pliers or screwdriver may be required to direct the snap button into the correct position.
Slide the snap button into the tube until the pin pops up through the pinhole.
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